Learnmoore Driving

All of the following is sound advise in the fog.

The highway code says

Fog
234
Before entering fog check your mirrors then slow down. If the word ‘Fog’ is shown on a roadside signal but the road is clear, be prepared for a bank of fog or drifting patchy fog ahead. Even if it seems to be clearing, you can suddenly find yourself in thick fog.

235
When driving in fog you should

•use your lights as required (see Rule 226)
•keep a safe distance behind the vehicle in front. Rear lights can give a false sense of security
•be able to pull up well within the distance you can see clearly. This is particularly important on motorways and dual carriageways, as vehicles are travelling faster
•use your windscreen wipers and demisters
•beware of other drivers not using headlights
•not accelerate to get away from a vehicle which is too close behind you
•check your mirrors before you slow down. Then use your brakes so that your brake lights warn drivers behind you that you are slowing down
•stop in the correct position at a junction with limited visibility and listen for traffic. When you are sure it is safe to emerge, do so positively and do not hesitate in a position that puts you directly in the path of approaching vehicles
236
You MUST NOT use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced (see Rule 226) as they dazzle other road users and can obscure your brake lights. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves.  [Law RVLR regs 25 & 27]

229
Before you set off

•you MUST be able to see, so clear all snow and ice from all your windows
•you MUST ensure that lights are clean and number plates are clearly visible and legible
•make sure the mirrors are clear and the windows are demisted thoroughly

226
You MUST use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced, generally when you cannot see for more than 100 metres (328 feet). You may also use front or rear fog lights but you MUST switch them off when visibility improves (see Rule 236).
[Law RVLR regs 25 & 27]

251
Parking in fog. It is especially dangerous to park on the road in fog. If it is unavoidable, leave your parking lights or sidelights on.

114
You MUST NOT

•use any lights in a way which would dazzle or cause discomfort to other road users, including pedestrians, cyclists and horse riders
•use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves to avoid dazzling other road users (see Rule 226)

One of the best…

This Fifth Gear video shows a head on collision at 60mph, this could be an easy situation to come across, especially if you were not concentrating.

A recent survey conducted by Harvard University suggests this is easier than it may look.  The survey suggests that people spend about half of their waking hours day dreaming.  Add the distrations of mobile phones, car stereo’s, sat nav’s, other passengers and external distractions.  A survey by What Car? suggests that drivers are distracted by landmarks such as the Angel of the North, and Stonehenge.

All in all a lesson learnt, that a moments distraction, really can be fatal.

Core competencies describes the method DSA require to developing a clients driving by Identifying faults, Analysing and Correcting them (Remedial Action).  A good way of remembering these is WHAT, WHY and HOW? Note this is not necessary in this order.  In a dangerous, or stressful situation is is often better to explain HOW to correct it, before explaining or asking the client WHY is is a fault    

Getting excellent marks here is essential for success at Part 3.  The lowest grade at core competencies often reflects the overall grade, and this is closely related to level of instruction.  According to the ADI1 from DSA Guidance for Examiners  

  

  

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT is the Fault? WHAT could be improved?

 Identification is only the first stage, and should be used with the other core competencies to be successful.  Although it is easy to spot faults, excellent perception and observational skills are required to identify a fault.   

According to the ADI1 from DSA Guidance for Examiners  

“This covers the ability of the trainer to clearly identify all the important risk areas committed by the customer that require development as part of an effective instructional coaching process.”  

A fault is anything which is any deviation your own standard of safe driving.  These are often categorised into:  

Driver Fault – low risk but a potential danger  

Serious Fault – high risk potentially dangerous  

Dangerous Fault – high risk actual danger   

This will help you prioritise which order to deal with faults.  Remember also there are faults can be categorised into four areas, known as the GDE (Goals for Driver Education).  They are known as  

Personality – the drivers’ attitude and beliefs. Life long goals.
(95% of all crashes are caused by poor behaviour or attitude)
E.g. “it doesn’t matter if we are a few miles an hour over the limit”  

Situation – the drivers’ ability to route plan, assess the weather, traffic and road conditions.  E.g. Missing a directional road sign, misjudging weather conditions.  

Theory – the drivers’ knowledge of the highway code and legalities.
E.g. Knowledge of a box junction, or solid white lines.  

Control – the drivers’ control of the vehicle.
E.g.  Jerky controls, ability to make the car creep.  

  

WHY is it a Fault? WHY may it need improvement? Analysis

According to the ADI1 from DSA Guidance for Examiners  

“This covers the ability, having identified a fault, to accurately analyse the cause and offer an analysis as appropriate. It covers inaccurate, incomplete or omitted fault analysis.”  

Analysis is critical for so that a client understands the reasoning for doing something a specific way.   

THEN THE ANAYSIS… in two parts, cause and effect.   

CAUSE  

what was the cause of the fault?  

Identify the correct cause, otherwise the analysis is useless!   

EFFECT  

what is the effect of the fault  

Remember it is very easy for me to tell you how to do something, but if you understand why you do something, then you are less likely to repeat the fault, and are more likely to understand the consequences.  

    

HOW to solve the Fault? HOW could it be improved? Remedial Action

Remedial Action is the solution to faults usually through telling/asking or demonstrating how to correct it.   

According to the ADI1 from DSA Guidance for Examiners  

“This relates to offering constructive and appropriate coaching/advice to remedy a risk or fault that has been identified and analysed. The risk assessment need not be immediate if this would be inappropriate at the time, but it should be given at the first opportunity”  

Offer simple solutions so that your client can remember and understand what you are advising.  

The correction will depend on the analysis – choose the most appropriate advice  

CORRECT THE FAULT   

• With Advise – Use Talk through 
• Use the words, “Try this…” or “Do this…”
  ”Like this…” Be specific – quantify how much …e.g. to steer
• With examples                   
• Statistics
• What you can see through the windscreen?
• Previous experiences.  
• Demonstration
• Visual Aids 
• Books 
• With routines – MSM PSL, POM etc.. 
• With reference points -  Line the car up with…

Follow up – Essential to be a great instructor.

Make the lesson plan, aim, objectives and route reflect the faults and analysis discussed.  This is how lessons become bespoke to the client.  A turn in the road lesson can soon turn into a clutch control, hill start or observation lesson dependant on the faults.   

Sticking to a lesson plan rigidly shows poor sensitivity to the clients needs if they change throughout the lesson.

Training to be a driving instructor can be tough, one of the main stumbling blocks for many PDI’s is level of instruction.  This is directly related to your final overall mark, getting this and core competencies right produces high marks.

 What does it mean?

Level of instruction is exactly that, the level at which you direct or help the client/student throughout the session.  This applies not only on both ‘phases’ but also every minute of the lesson and to specific tasks.

 What levels are there?

100% Guided/Full instruction is difficult at first, it is describing in detail each part of a task in perfect time.  “Clutch down, into first gear, set your accelerator, bring your clutch up to the biting point, hand on the handbrake, six point checks…..” Practicing this is key to becoming an accomplished instructor.  

An insturctor should always be looking to move to the next level of instruction when the student is comforatable with this, this encourages learning.  Stopping at fully instructed level too long, can de-motivate the student, and not show good development, which is what the examiner requires on the part three test or check test. 

50% Prompted – key questions to encourage the client to take on responsibility after full instruction of what they have just learnt.  “What are you going to do next?” or “What else?” this can also be specific “Have you checked your blind spot?”.  Again encouragement to move towards less input from the instructor and more from the student shows learning.  Try to move on from this level as soon as the client is ready. 

0 – 25% Coaching - A key skill for any trainer, encouraging self analysis and improvement.  Questions like “How did that go?”, “What could you have improved?” “What you you mark yourself out of ten for that?” and again more specific if necessary “What would you mark yourself out of ten for controlling your speed on that drive?” The key to coaching is to encourage the client/student to take responsibility for their own driving/actions through self analysis.  All of the best drivers can self analyse.

0% Fully Independant – Critial level to reach, all driving instructors or coaches should encourage their cleints to reach a fully independant stage, where they require no input to carry out a task well and consistantly.  Validating this is important for the trainer also, this means ensuring that a student recoginises they have reached this level.  Again coaching can be useful to do this, for example asking “How did that go?” If a student replies “I am happy with that” and you agree then that should be praised. 

Continual assessment of Level

Each task, and part of that task will require different amount of help from the driving instructor.  For example, on turn in the road a client may need full instruction on how to use the clutch, but need only coaching, or prompting for observation. 

Matched Level

Utimately a matched level is the prefect level of input from the instructor in order that the student can learn as quickly as they can.  The level will change to less AND MORE dependant on the driving situation, and the clients ability.  Sometimes it is necessary to go into full instruction with a very advanced student because it is stressful sitution, or one they have never had to do before. 

Over-Instruction - is simply giving too much guidence to a student, who is capable.  This hinders learning, and if it continues for longer that necessary can make it difficult to back off and let the student cope with less guidence as they are used to your input.  

Under-Instruction - can be dangerous.  Not giving enough guidence and support when student needs it, for example when takling moving off for the first time every, not offering full detailed instruction throught out.  Any detail which is critical for the task which is not clearly explained or discussed may also be classed as under or over instruction. 

The Volume Dial affect

Use the analogy of a volume dial on a stereo to help you, when the student needs more help and support increase it, but try and reduce the level as soon as the cleint can manage with less help.  This is the learning process and key to developing a student to their full potential as quickly as possible.   Part three tests and check tests will require expert and flexible use of the ‘volume’ control to get a good grading.

The DSA have issues five tips on driving in the Autumn.  Taking into account the time of year and day into one’s journey is a great idea at any time of the year, but Autumn brings it’s own hazards.

Tip One: Dazzled!  The sun is a huge hazard at this time of year, the sun is low in the sky, particularly in the morning and late afternoon.  Using sun visors and having sunglasses to hand is key to avoiding poor observation.  Learnmoore Driving recommend polarized sunglasses as they reduce glare.  I always use polarized sunglasses as they are much more clear than conventional sunglasses, especially when looking at road marking in damp weather. 

Windows should be kept clean at all times, keep a window scraper in the car, and keep the window washer fluid topped up regularly. 

Tip Two & Three – Puddles and Leaves.  Low friction surfaces are standard feature in Autumn, the very nature of damp, cold days with debris from trees and mud cause poor driving surfaces.  Adapting to conditions is critical, ensuring you have plenty of time to stop if necessary.  Puddles can be deceptive, and can cause the car to aquaplane, always assuming the worst with standing water is the best bet. 

Tip Four – Wind!  The UK has seen significant 70mph winds over the last few days.  High-sided vehicles, cyclists and debris in the road can be severely affected by wind.  Adjusting your speed, and preparing for gusts when overtaking larger vehicles is important to remain safe. 

Tip Five – Mud! Staffordshire has it’s fair share of mud, lanes and back roads will have significant mud, which can massively increase stopping distances.  Spray on windows means visibility can be reduced also.

My car history is not going to be looked on favorably by Jeremy Clarkson when I become a celeb on Top Gear.  To be fair if I had the money, it would be completely different, but I have enjoyed what I have had so far. 

Car 1 – ‘B’ reg, Ford Escort 1.3L MkIII Jade Green
This car was given to me by my manager when I worked in Sainsbury’s.  I was shocked when the my friendly Jordie Manager Sue, turned to me, knowing me very well saying “Do you want a car?”.  What a question to ask a skint student in final year who was dying to get on the road. 

Jade as she became known was in a sorry state when I first had her, she had no MOT, knackered tyres, and badly needed a service.  £250 of welding and sundries later I had a fairly reliable, but hugely practical car.   She had no power steering, four gears, only an AM/FM radio cassette player and some interesting traits.  Her best asset was the bodywork which was pretty much mint and nearly rust free!

Jade was special because she was my first car, but she also had a few niggles, been a ford!  The 1.3 engine was great, but was one of the first to have electronic timing system which was poor.  This meant that up to 60mph, she was great, fairly economical and relatively swift for the size of engine.  However at 70mph, she would had major issues, the engine made a loud banging noise and lost power.  The trip from uni in Huddersfield to home in Staffordshire was difficult on the M1, so my strategy was to change to the ‘back route’ through the middle of peak district park. 
View Larger Map

This route was incredible, with fantastic views, awesome roads and large gradients.  This is the route I generally use on the Pass Plus course by Learnmoore Driver Training. 

Due to the cost of insurance, and final year I had to make the hard decision to get rid of Jade.  She was sold on Ebay to a man from Anglesey, unfortunately he was going to ‘dip her body in acid’ – which I where I cringed! ….and use it for a show car.  If I had known this before hand I would never have sold her, but that’s life!

 

Car 2 – ‘Y’ reg, Ford Fiesta 1.8TD LX Silver

This car was meant to be the perfect first tuition car, diesel, easy to drive, air con and CD player.  As this Fiesta was very rare with the 1.8 turbo diesel engine I searched the country to find one.  The one I brought must have been the worst!  The air conditioning did not work on the demo drive, so I asked for it to be re-gassed before picking it up at the garage.  I was excited as it was a nippy car, but very economical.  I only owned the car for a matter of weeks, but the air conditioning failed to work at all.  On checking at the garage, the air con was never re-gassed by the dealer I brought it from.  After many telephone conversations they agreed to pay to be done at a local Ford garage.  Finally the air con was icy cold.  The brakes were never good on this car, the first instance where the brakes failed was on a steep decent down from Holme Moss in Yorkshire .
The garage agreed to have the brakes tested, and they were found to be OK by the local Ford Garage. 

A few days later again coming down a steep hill, but this time with four people in the car, the brakes failed to work.  I used the gears to slow the car down.  This was the not safe, and I was in communication with the garage to try and reject the car.  Just as we agreed to reject the car, it overheated when there was a hole found it the pipe from the header tank. 

 Car 3 – ‘W’ reg, Rover 45 1.4iL British Racing Green
This was meant to be a 1.25 petrol Grey Fiesta Zetec, but I went away on holiday and missed out as it sold from the garage during the time I was away.  I needed a car, and settled for this as I was looking for a car with air con, CD player and was easily insured on a moderate budget. 

Although in hindsight it was a mistake buying this car, as I lost a lot of money on it, it had in my opinion one of the best engines ever made.  The 1.4 Rover K-series was fantastic, it was always very smooth, and revved beautifully all the way up to the red line near 8,000 rpm.  Although this was only 1400cc, after 3,500 revs it had a superb surge as the sports cam kicked in.  The interior was very comfortable, the air conditioning was amazing, the ride was reasonable and the BMW sourced CD player was very good.  On the downside, it was a very old hat design, the steering was far too vague and light and it made me look like an old man.  It was a reliable car, but was sold as it was certainly not suitable for driving tuition, it was too big, with poor rearward observation and an absolute pain to drive without stalling.  I think this was because it was a small engine in a reasonably sized car, and the engine had no low down torque or power.  Even so, like all of my cars, it was waxed within an inch of its life.   

Unfortunately though, during my ownership someone decided to vandalise the car, I was not happy.  This was fixed, and I needed to change the car for something more suitable for driving tuition.  Although I conducted much of my Part 2 driving practice in this car, and passed my part 2 in it. 

Car 4 – ‘P’ reg, Ford Fiesta 1.4 Ghia X in Metallic Blue

This car was my first tuition car, fitted with dual controls.  It was the most enjoyable car to drive, it was swift comfortable, but above all handled very well.  The steering offered great feedback, the Yamaha developed 1.4 16v engine was great and provided enough power for overtaking.  The air conditioning was great, it was well specified and unbelievably easy to drive.  My first student also passed their driving test in this car. 

As all the Ford’s owned previously, lots of work was required, brakes being the worst culprit.  The cost of maintaining this car drove me towards making the plunge towards a new car. 

Car 5 – ’07′ reg, Skoda Fabia 1.2 64bhp Classic in Silver
My first brand new car, it was great for teaching and very comfortable.  The car was very well built and student’s enjoyed driving it.  The engine was a 3 cylinder 12v 64bhp, so was not quick, but could be very economical.  It had an interesting sound when revved hard, as it often was by clients.  The air conditioning also worked very well.  This was my first Skoda and I was very impressed.  Still I wanted more, I wanted more economy and more power, this car was hard work on hills. 

Car 6 – ’55′ reg 2006, Skoda Fabia 1.9TDI 105 bhp Elegance in Storm Grey

My current car, it is definitely the best car I have owned.  Its best features include its superb engine, which is the tried and tested 1.9TDI seen in so many of the Volkswagen group cars.  It is very economical returning 76.4mpg on my best run, it is very torquey which makes driving quickly easy.  The car has disc brakes all around, which makes this the best braking car I have ever driven.  The heated seats make winter bearable, and the air conditioning actually makes condensation on the outside of the car in the summer like an ice cold can of coke. 

The car is very easy to drive, and has parking sensors to make tight spots during on street parking much easier.  If I was going to make the car better, I’d upgrade to the 15″ alloys, upgrade the engine to 130bhp, have a smaller steering wheel fitted and get leather seats.  To be fair though the car is superb.

At any time of year driving in wet conditions creates extra hazards for the driver, just the same as in ice or snow.  Taking this in to account, it is important to see the reason for this, and how you can adapt your driving to the conditions.  As per any journey pre-drive safety checks are essential to been safe.  “FLOWERY” is a good way of remembering this, these should be done in reverse order, as the most critical check is You and Rubber…

F – Fuel levels
L – Loads, safely secured and not overloaded
O – Oil levels correct
W – Water and fluid levels correct
E – Electrics (including all lights)
R – Rubber  including tyre checks, and good wiper blades.  A good chance to keep windows clear
Y – You – Sober, alert, awake and licensed. 

In the rain, or in standing water scenarios the tyres have less traction with the road.  Stopping distances double as it takes longer much to stop.    The video below demonstrates the limitations of traction. 

Motorways can be the most useful types of road to the modern world, allowing quick and safe access to much of the country.  However, when it goes wrong on the Motorway, it can cause serious injury and often results in multi car situation very rapidly.  How often do you here that a part of the Motorway has been closed due to an ‘accident’. 

Provisional license holders are not permitted to use the Motorway until they have passed the UK driving test, which means they do not have to have any practical experience, yet once they have passed their test, are allowed on without any prior experience.  ”Rule 253 of the Highway Code states:    Prohibited vehicles.  Motorways MUST NOTbe used by pedestrians, holders of provisional motorcycle or car licences, riders of motorcycles under 50 cc, cyclists, horse riders, certain slow-moving vehicles and those carrying over-sized loads (except by special permission), agricultural vehicles, and powered wheelchairs/powered mobility scooters”

In my opinion this needs to be updated and Motorway driving tuition should be mandatory in order to hold a UK driving license.  This article aims to address just some of the common errors by drivers using these types of road. 

Joining the Motorway

Looking at this image, the red car is joining the Motorway, but there are only very few spaces for them to enter the main carriageway.  Remember that the red car needs to be able to enter the road whilst giving priority to the traffic on the Motorway already. 

Using accelerator control on this image I would ease off, until I was alongside the larger gap between the  grey and blue car at the very bottom of the picture.  This gap is highlighted on the image.

One thing to be aware of is the red car in lane two, as they could move back into this space.  This is why the ‘shoulder’ or ‘blindspot’ check is critical, as the mirror will not necessary show vehicles directly adjacent to your car.  In this image the grey car adjacent to the car preparing to enter is in a ‘blindspot’. 

There are only small gaps elsewhere to enter the Motorway safely as other options.  It would be poor practice to try and accelerate further into the smaller gaps, as you are forcing your way in, rather than merging across in the safest place. 

Use of acceleration and deceleration like this is essential for controlling space around the car, if you can do this affectively, and safely your Motorway driving should improve.  Squeezing into small gaps often causes a line of cars having to slow down as they are driving too close to just ease off to deal with this. 

It is also worth noting the hatched markings on this drawing.  In this case solid, this indicates it is illegal to cross this line, unless it is an emergency or strictly necessary.  This is to protect drivers on the main carriageway.   However where the line is broken, this can be entered, if necessary and safe. 

Additionally, notice the signal given by the red car entering the Motorway.  In this case it is essential, if there was nothing on the Motorway it may not be necessary.  Due to the monotony of driving on this type of road, most drivers will drop their concentration, without your signal, they may not notice you trying to enter the road, make it clear you are intending to enter early, to give drivers on the main road time to react if necessary. 

Additionally, if you are approaching this situation on the main road, acceleration control would also help the car attempting to merge in.  If I was in the light blue car at the very bottom of the image I would check the mirrors and ease off for a few seconds, making the highlighted gap bigger, thus easier for the merging car.  Of course another alternative is to consider a lane change however this can cause other issues.  Considering a lane change should have been planned a lot further back than this, as soon as there is any indication of a new lane entering, I would start to consider which is the safest lane and best speed to approach this potential collision situation.   The flow of traffic and speed of traffic on both the main road and slip road is critical information to this decision.  My personal opinion is that in most situations it is probably safer to increase the gap than to change lanes, unless there is significant traffic coming from the slip road at a very slow speed.  Most drivers will choose to exceed the speed limit, therefore moving into another lane is often not necessary. 

This picture shows two scenarios, which can be controlled by the driver with use of the accelerator.

In this scenario the driver of the red car has boxed himself in between the other cars on the motorway, there the only ‘escape route’, or space to swerve into if there is a problem is towards the slip road.  If this was at 10-15mph I would be concerned, but at Motorway speeds I would avoid this at all costs. 

 In this scenario the driver of the red car has backed off the slower moving driver in the light blue car, he has space to move to the right hand lanes, and space to brake if necessary between the red car and the blue car in front.  Not only this but there is an option of an ‘escape route’ to the hard shoulder in an emergency situation. 

The ability to change into overtaking lanes (lane 2 and 3) means that the red car can make more progress than the same red car in the scenario above.

This image can also highlight another point.  Considering the blue car half the way up the image in lane one, this car would like to swap to the centre lane in order to overtake the red car.  There is a grey car already in lane 2.  If the blue car moved in to lane 2 now, this could hinder the progress of the grey car, and even force him to change lanes unnecessarily.  Holding back for a few moments, and waiting for the gap behind the grey car is a lot safer. 

Basic principles of Motorway driving is that lanes should be changed one at a time.  This is because this does not give other drivers chance to predict what you are going to do.  One of the major causes of collisions or near misses is been making your own driving predictable to others for example by using signals in good time, and also to predict what others might do. 

Speed
Rule 261 in the Highway code states, “You MUST NOT exceed 70 mph (112 km/h), or the maximum speed limit permitted for your vehicle (see Rule 124). If a lower speed limit is in force, either permanently or temporarily, at road works for example, you MUST NOT exceed the lower limit. On some motorways, mandatory motorway signals (which display the speed within a red ring) are used to vary the maximum speed limit to improve traffic flow. You MUST NOT exceed this speed limit.” 

One reason for this limit is in order that there is space to stop without colliding with another vehicle.  Bearing in mind the stopping distance according to the highway code at 70mph is 96 metres (315 feet or a football pitch in length) at maximum breaking, assuming you are alert, on a dry road and that your brakes/tyres are in good repair.   The approximate scale of the drawing above would be approximately 60metres (196ft).  Therefore are you leaving enough room if you choose to do 80+ mph or not? 

New research from Brake and Direct Line insurers shows that the majority of drivers speed on motorways. 

The picture below represents a 130yard football pitch to scale. 

Skidding
The main causes of a skid are:

• Too much Speed/Accelerator
• Too much Steering
• Too much brake

So often on a Motorway I view drivers who drive very quickly, and accelerate harshly towards other cars, harsh quick lane changes, and heavy braking.  This can upset the balance of the vehicle and cause a loss of traction, particularly on a wet road.  The consequences of this does not bear thinking about.

As winter closes in this is the perfect time to prepare for the cold and the dark.  Getting your car prepared for the winter could be a life safer now the chill sets in. 

Things to check:

• Tyres – critical for traction, tyres should be in good order.  Check pressures, tread depth (ideally more than 3 millimetres, but the legal minimum is 1.6), no cuts or bulges in the tyre and is the spare OK?  For further on how to check your tyres
• Electrics – See and be seen! Each and every bulb on the car is to help you and other drivers, check them now and on a regular basis to ensure you stay safe.  A three minute check which could definitely be a life safer.  Check them in the light of day, rather than when you run out on a dark, cold night. 
• Fluids and Oil – One of the most annoying thing in the winter is having to scrape the windows, and keep them clean, which is a legal requirement.  Filling the washer fluid with a good quality washer fluid now, will ensure this does not freeze when needed.  Try and get a washer fluid which is rated down to -22′c or better!  Use the opportunity to check oil, brake fluid and coolant levels.  Check them in the light of day, rather than when you run out on a dark, cold night. 
• Fuel – ensuring the level of fuel leaves room for error.  Have you got enough if you were stranded for a night, or diverted the long way around?  Ensure you don’t mis-fuel, again potentially leaving you stranded on a chilly night.  Mis-fueling is more common than you may think. 

Been prepared:

• Sober, alert and awake.  Celebrations in the winter months can encourage driving under the influence of drink or drugs.  Ensure you don’t put yourself and others at risk unnecessary.  It takes at least one hour per unit of alcohol plus half an hour from the last drink. 
• Packing for the worst case scenario, ensure you have a torch with spare batteries, warm clothing, spare food and drink and something to shovel your way out of trouble if necessary. 
• Prepare your journey and communicate to your friends and family where you are going and when your are likely to arrive.  Have spare maps to hand, don’t forgot the Sat Nav can stop working, not receive a signal or run out of battery.